Revised Complete Guide to
Easter Island Now Available!
A revised edition of The Complete Guide to
Easter Island has been released by the
Easter Island Foundation. Like its predecessor,
which underwent three printings and has sold
more copies than any other EIF publication, this
expanded version brings together the latest
scientific and tourist information in a format
designed to appeal to both researchers and lay
readers alike: Sections on history, legends,
conservation, island theories, antiquities, and
culture complement detailed coverage of the
village of Hanga Roa, accommodations, shopping,
vehicle rental, entertainment, island sights,
and more. The Guide also includes a
chapter on the Rapanui language, an extensive
glossary, a detailed chronology, a comprehensive
bibliography, and updated island maps. With 70
additional pages, this revised Guide
includes new sections, such as discussions on
the role of the sweet potato in Oceania, dating
systems used by scientists, and listings of
Easter Island artefacts found in museums around
the world. Richly illustrated and featuring
black & white and color photographs by the
author. Whether you’ve been on the island, are
planning your first trip, or returning to this
most enigmatic place, The Complete Guide
is your indispensable Easter Island resource.
$25 + shipping. Order your copy from the EIF
today!
(Also available from Amazon.com)

Announcing an EIF publication
by Rhys Richards...
Easter Island
1793 to 1861:
Observations by Early Visitors
Before the Slave Raids
From the back cover:
An exhaustive collection of reports, letters,
and accounts —
some never before published — from the first
ships to visit
Easter Island. A valuable scholarly edition to
find a space
on every Rapanuiphile’s bookshelf!

Softbound; 144 pages (featuring
black &
white
photographs and illustrations);
ISBN
978-1-880636-28-2; 2008
Available from the Easter Island Foundation
(Easter Island Foundation
Publications)
or
Amazon.com
Announcing a new publication
by Christopher Stevenson & Sonia Haoa
Prehistoric Rapa Nui.
Landscape and
Settlement Archaeology
at Hanga Ho´onu
From the back cover:
As the authors of this book show, contrary to
past perceptions,
the Easter Island landscape was a highly
transformed and
managed agricultural terrain that emerged in
response to
deforestation by the Polynesians who settled
there. This volume
adds a new dimension to scholarly investigations
about why the
island’s prehistoric society evolved the way it
did.

Softbound; 297 pages (includes a fold-out map)
ISBN 978-1-880636-26-8; 2008
Available from the Easter Island Foundation
(Easter Island Foundation
Publications)
or
Amazon.com
Announcing a new publication
by Rhys Richards...
Manu Moriori: Human and Bird Carvings
on Live Kopi Trees on the Chatham Islands.
From the back cover:
Tree carvings made by Moriori long ago remain
alive today on Rekohu on only about 150 living
trees. At the present rate of decline, all
living carved trees could well be dead within
the next generation. Fortunately, a substantial
body of sketches and photographs of the motifs
carved by Moriori long ago is available in
Dunedin. The main motifs are squatting human "hocker"
figures, which Moriori called "manu" or "birds".
Before traditional Moriori society was
overwhelmed by the Maori invasion in 1835,
Moriori talked to thee carvings as an interface
t hrough which to speak to their dead ancestors
and spirits that were not in this world.

Softbound; 96 pages (featuring color and
black &
white photographs and drawings);
ISBN
0-9582013-7-4; 2004
Order direct from Paremata Press
73 Seaview Rd., Paremata
Wellington, New Zealand 5024
Another
Archaeological Attack
According to an article
appearing in the April 6 El Mercurio de
Valparaíso, two 30-year-old islanders,
identified only by their initials (“L.P.T.” and
“E.E.P.”), were caught damaging a protected
archaeological site on the island in the area of
Akahanga on the south coast and detained by
police. The two were
digging a shallow well ostensibly to provide
water for their animals. Considering the act a
flagrant violation, CONAF responded quickly and
Sonia Haoa, a representative of the Consejo de
Monumentos Nacionales de Rapa Nui, was
dispatched to the site to certify its
prehistoric status and evaluate the damage. In
the process of digging the 10-foot (3-meter)
deep well, the islanders had, in fact, uncovered
ancient tools (which were taken away by local
police).
Ironically, the archaeologist
has been criticized by some islanders for her
condemnation of the acts of these two natives,
as evidently certain inhabitants do not view the
digging of the well in an archaeologically
sensitive area as particularly reprehensible. By
comparison with what the Finnish tourist did,
one may make the distinction between intentional
and unintentional harm but one cannot escape the
conclusion that both incidents involved needless
damage to the cultural patrimony of Easter
Island. Yet it’s also difficult to escape the
sense that there is a double standard; i.e.,
damage done to the island’s archaeology by a
foreign tourist is worse than damage done to the
island’s archaeology by natives. This apparent
bias is borne out by the fact that local
judicial authorities have ordered a 60-day
evaluation period to determine on their own if
the area where the two islanders dug the well is
an archaeological site or not, despite the fact
that a formal determination of this was made by
an archaeologist.
• • •
Easter
Island Moai Damaged
According to various media
reports (e.g., Yahoo! News, CNN.com, the New
York Times, etc.) and corroborated by
information supplied by Easter Islanders and
numerous authorities, a 26-year-old Finnish
tourist named Marko Kuljo was detained on
Sunday, March 23rd after allegedly vandalizing
one of the moai on Ahu Nau Nau. While
initially facing the possibility of a prison
term and a fine of $19,000 (U.S. dollars) if
convicted of breaking off a piece of the right
earlobe of the third moai on the ahu,
the tourist, after being held under house
(“hotel”?) arrest, is now going to be allowed to
leave the island in so far as he has written a
public apology, has paid a $17,000 (U.S. dollar)
fine, and is banned from the island for three
years.
A non-native islander
witnessed Kuljo repeatedly wandering around the
platform, then jumping onto it and grabbing the
lower earlobe of the moai. A piece was
torn away and fell to the ground where it broke
into fragments 8- to 12-inches (20- to
30-centimeters) in size. Kuljo then tried to run
off with a souvenir of his reprehensible
exploit. This is especially pitiful, as the
moai at Ahu Nau Nau are amongst the better
preserved on the island. The witness chased the
suspect, obtained his name, and was able to
provide a description of him (partly because of
his extensive tattoos) to local police who later
arrested him. Unfortunately, apparently no one
else took part in attempting to prevent this
vandalism and the park guard was preoccupied at
the time and did not see the event unfold.
Contrary to what some media
reports have suggested, there is no evidence
Kulju acted spontaneously nor impulsively but
instead spent considerable time repeatedly
walking around ahu, as if to steel his
courage or perhaps keep an eye out for witnesses
before he acted. It is difficult to accept, as
one Weblog has suggested, that Kulju may have
been simply attempting to "verify the hardness
of the statue". And there is a world of
difference between touching a statue and
handling it in such a way as to break off a
piece. (One shouldn’t be touching the statues in
the first place and, in the second place, for
those statues on platforms, to be able to touch
a statue means one has had to climb onto the
platform, which is forbidden.) Moreover, it
seems disingenuous at best when the Finnish
consul, according to other media reports, stated
that Kulju was surprised his act would create
such a "stir". How could he not know his actions
were inappropriate? And, besides, who has the
wherewithal to travel to Easter Island and visit
one of its historic areas without knowing
anything about how sacred it might be to the
islanders or simply how valuable or fragile the
site might be? This only inspires disbelieve
that this tourist is merely ignorant, as
otherwise how can one imagine him doing this
sort of thing at any other famous or venerated
places elsewhere in the world? There is no
shortage of tour books about Easter Island,
virtually every one of which addresses the
sacred nature of the island’s shrines, the
fragility of the statues, and the fact that
tourists should obey signs and by all means stay
off the platforms. Are we to believe that Kulju
went to Easter Island with no preparation or
reading or research or homework at all?
Regardless, at least by his own admission (as
reported in La Tercera), he has
acknowledged that this is the worst mistake of
his life. No argument there!
Though trails and some walls
and fences have been introduced in recent years
to control burgeoning tourist access and
minimize damage at various sites (some damage of
which can also be caused by the thousands of
horses that run free on the island — another
problem), part of the charm of Easter Island is
the open accessibility of the historic sites.
But that accessibility makes the sites
vulnerable. And one can easily fear that
vandalism like that committed by Kulju will only
encourage the island authorities to impose even
greater restrictions. Consider Stonehenge. Its
sarsen stones and even its bluestones are orders
of magnitude harder than the lapilli tuff out of
which the moai at Ahu Nau Nau was made,
but, because of past abuses by visitors,
restrictions were eventually imposed at
Stonehenge and, short of special permit,
tourists are now limited to viewing the monument
from a walkway that circumnavigates the site and
doesn’t get much closer than 20 feet (6 meters).
The Puna Pau topknot quarry on Easter Island has
recently become off-limits; visitors may view it
from a pathway along the edge of the quarry.
Similarly, regions such as the Poike Peninsula
and the island’s tallest peak, Maunga Terevaka,
no longer allow motorized vehicular access. As
necessary as it is, one must also lament the
idea that more developments like this will
evolve more fully on Easter Island.
How “bad” was this attack?
Clearly, "bad" has two meanings here. The first
is the heinous and callous nature of the injury
to the statue, and there is no denying that the
moai has been mutilated. It is not
necessarily easy or inexpensive to repair such
damage, nor will the moai retain its
original aesthetic appeal, regardless of the
state of reconstruction it was in at the time it
was vandalized. Like other Polynesians, the
early Easter Islanders believed (and some still
believe) in the power of mana, a
spiritual force with which the statues are
imbued. One way to subtract mana or to
de-sanctify a moai was to damage it. It
is not necessary to believe in the Polynesian
concept of mana to see that the damage
done to this moai can be interpreted in
terms of spiritual beliefs — and in some
respects, repairs notwithstanding, this moai
will never be the same again. The second "bad"
aspect is that an act such as this does a
disservice to tourists who take the time to
learn what they can about the history and
culture of Easter Island and who respect it and
are grateful to experience it first-hand. Most
people who visit Easter Island fulfill a
lifelong dream in doing so. What is particularly
"bad" about this is the act was committed out of
stupidity, not ignorance, for there is plentiful
information available that would have educated
anyone with even meager curiosity about Easter
Island as to how wrong it is to behave in this
fashion, for this was not just a transgression
against the sacredness of Easter Island that may
be difficult for foreigners to fathom — but far
and beyond this, the essential act is one of an
omission of conscience. For no one should ever
think it appropriate or insignificant to do what
this tourist did. But one could hardly blame the
islanders if because of acts like this they
develop an even greater sense of scrutiny about
and defensiveness towards tourists in general.
While likely to have been said
tongue-in-cheek or out of hyperbolic
frustration, Easter Island Mayor Pedro Edmunds
Paoa said in a USA Today interview that
he wished Kulju’s ear could be clipped off as
punishment. “If an ear is cut off, then an ear
gets cut,” Edmunds Paoa said. "Eye for eye,
tooth for tooth: That would be my form of
justice". In what can ultimately only be seen as
a weak response to this comment, a
representative of the Finnish Embassy in
Santiago reported that the chairman of a health
club where Kulju regularly practiced fitness
boxing said he was a responsible and well-liked
person. "We haven't had a single bad experience
with him; quite the opposite," Eero Vsara told
the Associated Press. (Well, that's easily said;
how many sacred statues would one expect to find
in a health club?)
In the end, unfortunately this
is not likely to be the last time an event such
as this will occur on Easter Island. Indeed, one
may justly fear that, with increased tourism and
limited resources, the problem is only going to
get worse rather than better.
• • •
It’s the latest in a series of
acts of vandalism and desecration that have been
committed on the island in recent years. Not too
long ago a Japanese tourist sprayed graffiti on
the ahu at Vinapu; a Chilean man
scratched his initials into a moai at
Rano Raraku (where a British tourist also caused
some damage a while back); tourists irreparably
damaged cave artwork on the islet of Motu Nui;
islanders have been known to scrape pigment from
cave paintings; the ear of a moai on the
Poike Peninsula was broken; the upright moai
head at Vinapu was vandalized when an islander
scratched eyes and a "happy face" smile onto it
— and, on another occasion, someone scratched a
tear-drop shape under one of the moai’s
eyes. The island’s mayor even made a radio
broadcast expressing anger about vandals who
wrote graffiti on a moai; someone
scratched initials onto a petroglyph panel at
Rano Kau; and, in 2004, a 12-year-old island
girl spray-painted graffiti (her initials) on
the ahu at Tautira. In December of 2005,
a Chilean administrator was demonstrating to his
traveling partner how the moai were
constructed when he threw a 14-centimeter
(5.5-inch) rock at one of the statues, leaving
two small scuff marks on the ancient sculpture
and causing great embarrassment for the
minister.
And, of course, one of the
more egregious examples of vandalism on the
island occurred when a certain Canadian
"landscape artist" re-arranged rocks, in some
cases at potentially archaeologically sensitive
locations and, despite being held by authorities
and his materials confiscated, he smuggled some
film off the island which an unscrupulous
Canadian arts magazine published along with an
article by this "artist" who laughed at having
thwarted the islanders and the fact that they
were offended by his reprehensible and illegal
conduct. [For more details about this story,
follow
this link.]
Gotland Conference Photos
Paul Horley, a scientist, scholar, Rapanuiphile,
stylish dresser, and superb photographer, has
generously enabled the EIF to share pictures he
took during the recent Gotland conference. If
you follow the link from the EIF’s Web banner
page to "International Conferences", then select
the "VII International Conference on Easter
Island and the Pacific", you’ll find the
conference abstracts page, with (duh) abstracts
— but also links on the left margin to Gotland
University and two buttons for links to Paul’s
photographs — one set of which resides on his
flickr site (landscapes, architecture, etc.),
the other of which features pictures of
attendees at the conference accessible via an
clickable alphabetical list. There's even a
section with pictures taken during
activities like the banquet and various
excursions as well as several video clips of
stage performances.
Here’s your chance
to put a face to a name. Enjoy!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/moon_rabbit/collections/
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Obituaries
The Easter Island Foundation announces
with much regret the passing of the
following persons whose lives touched,
or were touched by the world of Easter Island.
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GONZALO FIGUEROA GARCIA-HUIDOBRO

(1931
- 2008)
It is with a great sense
of loss and sadness that we now remember
Gonzalo "Chalo" Figueroa, who was more
than a mentor and model to me because of
his commitment to Rapa Nui, but also a
dear friend. Those were his only words,
during a few seconds of consciousness,
when I visited him some weeks before his
departure from this life
It was more than twenty
years of a deep relationship, which
began soon after my first connection to
Rapa Nui, through the Fonck Museum on
the mainland, and then his invitation to
participate in the second Norwegian
Expedition in 1987. He was like a
mythical figure because of his
participation on the famous expedition
in 1955 and his long-term dedication to
Rapa Nui. I knew about his complex
relationship with Thor Heyerdahl and his
deep friendship with other two members
of the expedition, William Mulloy and
Arne Skj lsvold. I knew about Mulloy,
thanks to Gonzalo ... great qualities as
a person and as a scientist. His early
departure was a terrible loss as well,
something we can better appreciate from
the distance now.
Committed, generous, a
good friend, an aristocratic but
unassuming gentleman who enjoyed life
and who passionately searched for
transcendency — these are some of the
many values and concepts that
characterized the complex and rich
personality that was Gonzalo Figueroa.
He was generous because he believed in
people, even though he had been
disappointed many times. Ultimately, the
restoration of Ahu Tongariki was a
painful experience — but, later on, we
were able to participate in the Japan
UNESCO project for the conservation of
archaeological sites on the island and
this felt like a brief return to the
good old days.
Besides archaeology,
Gonzalo (who was an honorary member of
the Sociedad Chilena de Arqueología)
dedicated his efforts to the
conservation and management of the
island. His most important contribution
was in politics: In 1966, along with
William Mulloy, he produced for UNESCO
the most comprehensive documentation on
Rapa Nui archaeology and its management.
Gonzalo had many books
and piles of documents and pictures
which he asked me to organize after my
stay of seven years on Easter Island. I
will never forget those moments of joy
while working with him in Chena (his
refuge outside Santiago). This was an
excellent way to learn more about Rapa
Nui and the man who loved and suffered
from it the most — my dear friend
Gonzalo. At least he was able, with his
friend Arne, to visit Rapa Nui for the
last time in 2004, during the VI
International Conference on Rapa Nui and
the Pacific held in Vi a del Mar. Arne
was already ill so it was their way to
say, "Iorana, Rapa Nui". Nice people,
after all. Moa toke te tangata.
May we all remember
Gonzalo as the warmest host in Chena,
the well-known place for many
Rapanuiphiles like Georgia Lee, Emily
and Brigid Mulloy, Chris Stevenson, Bill
Ayres, Grant McCall, and others — as
well as all of his many Rapanui friends.
And may this recognition
help to console his family, his wife
Maleca, and his children Diego, Antonia
y Santiago, and Monica, his Rapanui
daughter.
— José
Miguel Ramírez-Aliaga
Please note: A more
comprehensive obituary will appear in
the Fall 2008 issue of the Rapa Nui
Journal.
CLEMENTE
HEREVERI

1975-2007 We find ourselves with
the sad duty to announce the death of
Clemente Hereveri of Easter Island.
Though he was ill for several months
preceding his death, at only 32 years of
age, surely his passing is untimely. He
was described as extremely bright and
culturally Rapanui, more so than many
other young, educated persons of his
generation. He was very much interested
in the Rapanui language and spoke it
better than most. The people of Easter
Island, it is said, loved him very much
and were always choosing him as their
representative. He shall be missed.
Please note: A more
comprehensive obituary appears in
the Spring 2008 issue of the Rapa Nui
Journal.
Arne
Skjølsvold

(click to
enlarge)
1925-2007
Arne Skjølsvold was one of the pioneers
of Pacific field archaeology and held
positions (in Norway) as curator and
head of several museums and institutes
as well as being a professor at the
University of Oslo. He initiated the
Kon-Tiki Museum Research Department in
1986 and was on the board of the
Kon-Tiki Museum for more than 20 years.
His PhD subject focused on the Neolithic
and Bronze Age periods — but his
interest turned to the Pacific when Thor
Heyerdahl invited him on the expedition
to the Galápagos Islands in 1952-53, and
then as a member of Heyerdhal's
expedition to Easter Island in 1955-56.
Arne investigated the quarries at Rano
Raraku and later during that expedition
he excavated on the islands of Rai'vavae
and Hiva Oa. Skjolsvold returned to
Easter Island in the 1980s for several
excavations, and also worked in Peru and
the Maldive Islands in the Indian Ocean.
On a personal note, I best remember him
from the 1980s when we were both on the
island at the same time. He loved to
sing and play guitar and there were many
rollicking parties when he sang at the
top of his lungs until he passed out.
Many islanders today remember his
singing and I am sure they may recall
the drunken bouts. He always had a
pretty vahine on at least one
arm.
—Georgia
Lee
Please note: A more
comprehensive obituary appears in
the Spring 2008 issue of the Rapa Nui
Journal.
FRANCESCO DI
CASTRI

1930-2005
Easter Island has lost a friend.
Francesco di Castri, ecologist, former
deputy director of the United Nations
Educational, Scientific, and Cultural
Organization, and former president of
the World Science Institute, died July
6, 2005. He was the founding director of
UNESCO’s Man and the Biosphere Program
and was considered one of UNESCO’s
principal contributors in promoting
international cooperation on
environmental issues. He was the
director of the French CNRS Centre for
Functional and Evolutionary Ecology,
worked as a university professor in Chile, and was an expert on Easter
Island. Dr. di Castri wrote more than 20
books and 350 articles, his work
addressing such matters as soil biology,
the convergence of Mediterranean
ecosystems, and the structure of animal
communities from the tropics to
Antarctica. He contributed several
articles for the Rapa Nui Journal,
including
“The Dynamic Future of Rapa
Nui” - RNJ 17(1):44-48 (May 2003) and “A Moai in Michelangelo Marble” -
RNJ 19(1):51-52 (May 2005).
Over the years we were privileged to
carry on a lively conversation with
Francesco, via email. His letters
expressed his love for Easter Island,
but also dismay over its seemingly
unsolvable problems. In early 2003, he
wrote that he had just spent two weeks
on the island, reviewing economic and
social developments and talking with
local authorities and entrepreneurs,
operators of tourism, and those with
very diverse aspirations. He visited
sites for new hotels, new plantations of
fruit and flowers, reviewed coastal
erosion projects, and gave advice on the
enormous erosion at Poike, as well as
problems of livestock.
He wrote that, “I now
understand much better the diverse
psychologies and aspirations of
islanders. The most impressive change is
the land distribution (from Vaihu up to
the northern coast) of some 1.900
hectares, which will be followed soon by
another 1.500 hectares. You can find
whatever you like in these newly
inhabited and cultivated lands, from
some decent houses to the most ugly
squatters, to just Eucalyptus
plantations, or nothing, but certainly
an impressive lot of barbed wire fences,
padlocks, etc. A large part of the
island is, for tourists, now
impenetrable”
. He added that
he expected to return to the island the
following April to organize a seminar
for land development and conditions for
island autonomy. But his expectations
were not high: “… they change their mind
so often, both Rapanui and Chilean, that
I really do not know if this will
materialize…”.
He
added, “Of course, some of my
conversations with authorities could
never be mentioned in a publication
because this fragile process would
immediately collapse, and we should
start again in a dozen years or so. Rapa
Nui is in a very dynamic state.
According to the laws of thermodynamics,
when this process takes place in a
non-equilibrium status, it is
technically called chaos, and this is
precisely the island at present.” And he
added, “…terrible management problems
remain to be solved in Rapa Nui. I think
that nowhere else in the world is there
an island where, concerning its
management, more unprecedented and
surprising madness has occurred. It goes
from the tragic to the completely
ridiculous. Usually, I deal with
development issues of such large
countries as China, India, Canada, or
Argentina. But stimulated by a strange
mixture of fun and love, I have
concentrated a sizeable amount of my
time this year (December 2002-January
2003, April and June 2003) on Rapa Nui
and Chile”.
In
December 2004, di Castri wrote, “The
situation in Rapa Nui is bad, very bad
for its sustainability. In addition to
the traffic congestion, including
motorbikes and so many taxis (a world
record), there is the continuous arrival
of poor and uneducated Continentales,
and the situation of waste disposal and
treatment, etc., continues. Land use is
a total disaster. Have you realized the
level of erosion in Poike (totally
eroded) and even around Rano Raraku and
Rano Kao? It is also as bad in level
parts because of the excess of cattle
and horses. All ecosystems in Rapa Nui
are under rapid destruction.”
Despite his
frustration and struggles, Franesco di
Castri’s
valuable contributions to Easter Island
studies will continue to have a positive
impact for years to come
WILLIAM
R. BARTLETT

1924-2007
Bill died peacefully in his sleep with
his family by his side early Sunday
morning, March 11th. He
passed away after a valiant battle
against lung cancer. Bill was an
American hero, having served his country
as a corporal in the Marine Corps
fighting in the Pacific during World War
II. He graduated from the Colorado
School of Mines in 1951 and subsequently
had a long and prosperous career as a
petroleum engineer in Saudi Arabia. An
inveterate traveler, Bill was a champion
of the Afghan people before, during, and
after their struggle against the Soviet
Union. One of his greatest wishes was to
see peace return to the people of that
region and to the Middle East. He is
survived by his wife of 49 years,
Juliette, and his daughters Karen, Liza,
and Jennifer. Memorial services will be
held at Ross, Burke & Knobel Mortuary on
Friday, March 16, 2007 at 11:00 am. In
lieu of flowers, the family requests
that you remember Bill by making a
donation in his name to the American
Cancer Society. We invite you to send a
condolence message in the
“Remembrance
Registry® Guestbook”
at the website of:
www.rossburkeknobel.com

Bill Bartlett was a crewmember on the
1986 Easter Island petroglyph
documentation project, under the
auspices of the University of California’s
(Berkeley) “University
Research Expeditions Program”.
He helped us to search for petroglyph
sites and assisted with mapping and
documenting the sites, and is remembered
as a really great team member. Bill was
always a low-key guy with a terrific
sense of humor. His hang-loose attitude
can be seen in the photograph taken of
Bill shortly after he had cut his head
while climbing into the project’s
van. We rushed him to the island’s
infamous hospital where a Chilean doctor
patched him up, told him to put ice on
his head, and “take
it easy.” So here
we see Bill with an ice pack on his
head, contemplating the vagaries of life
that brought him to this tiny island in
the Pacific. No doubt his years in
the Middle East provided him with a bit
of stoicism so that a bump on the head
was only a minor setback.
Bill was a special guy, and we shall
miss him.
— Georgia
Lee
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